Road Trip - Andalucia to Extremadura to Portugal and Back

With limited time off and so many tempting Spanish cities to visit, as well as Portugal to cross into, we headed north-west from home in Andalucia over the regional border into Extremadura, over the country border and back in time an hour into Portugal and vice versa. A long weekend turned into 4 nights, driving, city exploring, monument pounding and eating. 

Empty Extremadura Road

Heading westwards from the olive-covered province of Jaén to the rolling brown fields towards Córdoba city, then an abrupt north-wards turn and we´re in the pastureland of northern Córdoba province. After an excellent lunch, a lucky find - Café Español in Villanueva del Rey, a green road sign tells  us we´ve entered the region of  Extremadura, the flatlands and vast, sweeping empty road views continue.

Extremadura

Weetabix-coloured hay bales in towers, scattered like fallen Jenga blocks, cylindrical ones and squat shapes like ancient churches dot the countryside. The road straight and flat with miles visible ahead the vistas barely  change. Cotton fields, dried up, drooping brown sunflowers, grape vines turning rust or vivid burgundy line the excellent condition, empty roads sped us to our first stop with the odd holm oak dotted across golden fields, the immensity of the open space and lack of habitation.

Extremadura Road

Zafra - full of charm

The smallish but very charming city of Zafra has a Parador in what was a 15th century fortress and later the Palace of the Dukes of Feria. We of course go in (as we always feel the need to check them out) for coffee in the immense and gorgeous interior patio. 

Zafra Parador

Very close by is the ancient Plaza Grande de Zafra connected to the equally as beautiful Plaza Chica, the photogenic double plazas in the centre of town. This was once a strategic point of trade on the Via de la Plata, the Roman Road leading from the south (Sevilla) to the north and Santiago de Compostela.

Zafra Plaza

From Zafra the fabulous old monastery hotel Hotel Monasterio Rocamador nearer Badajoz was our stay for the night. I very much plan trips around hotels to check out and new ones to add to my Only Spain Boutique Hotel (and B&B) site - it´s not on there yet! Well worn cobbles, narrow corridors old brick and stone walls and fabulous views mean I´ve made a good choice. The hotel restaurant is in the old chapel of the monastery, wine tastings in the cloisters and cows in the old monastery grounds. A good choice.

Bold Badajoz

The morning takes us to Badajoz and its unusual decorated plaza, interesting alcazaba and fascinating outdoor painting competition with artists´easels set up in corners here and there and painters capturing historical features in great detail. Half an hour after leaving Badajoz we find ourselves going back an hour as we hit Portugal to be surrounded by suprising greenery and tree-lined roads.

Plaza Alta from Alcazaba, Badajoz

Alcazaba Ramparts, Badajoz

Elvas -everyone should go

Mesmerised by the Portuguese town of Elvas, with its stunningly massive 15th century viaduct and interesting, horn-blaring, one car width but two-way access through the one of the old city gates - Puertas da Esquina.

Aqueduct in Elvas, Portugal

Entrance to Elvas

Wanting lunch becomes a walk from one restaurant to another, all fully booked. We seem to have chosen the main Saturday of their annual fair and all the town were lunching out, except us. We got in the car and headed off en-route towards our next stop. 

A pavement-full wayside bar spotted and worried that it was getting too late for kitchens to be open we stop. Being squeezed into a tiny dining room, we orde, not really sure what we´ll get. All was good, we consume a fine fare with lots of pointing and gestures and very few words, then onwards to the north. Proudly with more words of Portuguese than we had before, well two - obrigado (thank you) and porco (pork) our vocabulary was growing! 

Portuguese Menu

Fortunately our Spanish was far more use than English at times. What a reminder of moving to Spain without being able to speak the language! 

Marvellous Marvao - top of the world

Climbing up narrow mountain roads to our overnight stop, the medieval walled town of Marvao,  an absolute delight. Driving through the enormous entry gate into the cobbled streets feels like we should  beon horseback not in a car. The tiny town is surrounded by its city walls, the views reach back to Spain. Only about 12 miles as the crow flies to cross the border this is the highest point in the Serra de São Mamede.

Marvao Castle

Marvao Town

Cáceres - coolly splendid

Our time in Cáceres is rather overshadowed by husband realising he´s left his camera in Marvao. After whizzing round the monumental centre, clocking the great location of its Parador we decide to drive back intoPortugal. Two visits in one trip which rather cut short the alloted time for each wonderful city but with his camera back and he carries on shooting.

Merida - magnificence

Nicknamed the Spanish Rome it´s easy to see why....

Roman Merida

Roman Theatre, Merida

Merida´s Roman legacy is awesome. Sitting where 6,000 spectators could fit in its day, 3,000 in events  these days, and trying to imagine its splendour is just mind boggling. The sheer size of it, the atmosphere must have been and be amazing. Not only that just over the back wall is the ampitheatre.

Trujillo

Plaza Mayor, Trujillo

Trujillo Plaza Mayor and Castle

Trujillo was the Spanish city I enjoyed the most even though the blue sky hid all day. An impressive plaza mayor, a castle you may recognise (from Game of Thrones) and an abundance of charm. I will be back for a longer stay and give it the attention it deserves.

That´s the beauty of a road trip, packing in a lot to discover where you really want to return to. Portugal is a definite and soon (it´s a trip at planning stage now) and Trujillo is a must too.

Next stop Lisbon (and possibly Porto) via a winding inland Portugal route.